Buckeye Lake: Kayak It While It Is Still There

21 March 2015

Lake #12    Buckeye Lake, Fairfield, Licking, and Perry Counties

The first full day of spring and I am back on the water. I have 97 lakes left to kayak by November 6^th.  During the iced over days of winter, I set up an elaborate kayaking schedule for the remaining lakes: sorting them by size, geographic location and distance from home.  You know what happens to “the best laid plans…they often go awry.”

Originally, Buckeye Lake was on my BHAG schedule for the end of September but given the March 12^th U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ Buckeye Lake Dam Safety Report that the “likelihood of dam failure is high,” I thought it was best to bump the lake up to the top of my schedule; in case, the lake is not there come September.  The Report can be viewed in its entirety online at engineering.ohiodnr.gov. According to the Report the integrity of the 177 year old 4.1-mile long earthen dam has been significantly compromised by the more than 370 homes and other structures (like boat docks) that have been sunk into the dam’s embankment and sections of the dam that have been removed to make way for things like swimming pools and utilities. 

I have never been to another reservoir where homes or other structures were built into its dam. I wonder about the thought process that reached the conclusion that building into the Buckeye Lake dam was ok. What was everyone thinking? It is difficult to have sympathy for the homeowners in this case since they, along with the local government that granted the building permits, caused this problem. Yet, as an Ohio taxpayer it looks like I will be helping to foot the bill to repair/replace the reservoir. I am not saying that I don’t care about people’s safety; I don’t want to see anyone harmed by the dam’s failure but I am annoyed at the stupidity that led to this problem. According to the Report, the dam’s failure would threaten about 3,000 people and 2,100 homes. There are evacuation route signs posted in the area to help lead people to safety if the dam should fail. Hopefully, now that the potential danger is known, steps will be taken to make sure that no one is harmed.

 

If the Dam Breaks Follow the Blue Circles

One of the recommendations of the Report is to leave the lake’s spillways open and keep the lake at its current winter depth of about 3 feet deep until remediation work can begin.  According to the Report, seepage through the dam increases when the lake is at full depth thus increasing the risk of the dam giving way. Normally, the spillways are closed on March 1^st to start filling the lake for its summer depth of around 6 feet.  This recommendation is being implemented, as the spillways were still open on March 21^st when I was kayaking.

The creation of Buckeye Lake has an interesting history.  Yes, I know, another history lesson. Sorry, I just can’t help myself. You can scroll down and skip the history part but it really is interesting. In the 1700s, the area was known as “Buffalo Licks” and simply “Big Swamp.” At the heart of this tree covered swamp was a lake that was fed by several small streams, with one of the largest being Buckeye Creek. This lake drained into the South Fork of the Licking River. In 1825, a water canal route was proposed from the Ohio River at Portsmouth to Lake Erie at Cleveland. The “Big Swamp” was conveniently located near the midpoint of the proposed canal route, with “Licking Summit” being the second highest elevation point. Ground was broken on the canal at Licking Summit on July 4, 1825 and a dam was built in 1826 to block drainage into the South Fork of the Licking River, creating a reservoir that would be able to provide water for the canals year round.

The “Big Swamp” came to be known as the Licking Summit Reservoir.  To put the age of the dam into perspective, think about the fact that it was built prior to the Civil War. When the reservoir was filled, sphagnum moss broke away from the reservoir’s bottom creating a floating island. At its creation the island was 50 acres in size. Now known as the Cranberry Bog State Nature Preserve, the island has shrunk over the years to less than 11 acres. The preserve is located along the north shore just east of Crystal Beach and the North Shore Ramp. Access to the island is restricted; a permit from the Ohio Department of Natural Resources Division of Natural Areas and Preserves is required to visit. In addition to the Cranberry Bog, about 25 other islands were created as the water level rose; most of these are located off the south shore.  

The Ohio and Erie Canal was 308 miles long with 146 lift locks upon its completion in 1833. Small towns grew up around Licking Summit Reservoir taking advantage of the canal and the lake’s resources.  The golden age for the canals was the 1830s to the 1860s, with canal traffic the heaviest from 1852 to 1855. The arrival of the faster railroads put an end to the demand for the canal system.  The Erie Canal entered the reservoir just northwest of Seller’s Point. There was a lock there but it has been replaced with an emergency spillway. Canal boats were towed by mules along the bank to the tip of Seller’s Point. A causeway existed from Seller’s Point to the east side of Onion Island so the mules could pull the barges to Millersport. There is still a canal to Millersport; it is located southwest of Lieb’s Island behind Buckeye Lake Marina.  In 1894, with the canal system deteriorating, the Ohio General Assembly established that canal feeder lakes were to be established as public parks. At that time, Licking Summit Reservoir was renamed Buckeye Lake.

Between 1904 and 1929, the Columbus, Buckeye and Newark Interurban Electric Railway brought people to the lake from nearby urban areas like Columbus, helping to turn Buckeye Lake into a tourist destination. Hotels and summer cottages sprung up around the lake.  The nine-acre Buckeye Lake Park known as “The Playground of Ohio” was built on the north shore. The park contained many amusement park rides and a supersized swimming pool.  The Playground of Ohio was located where the North Shore State Park is now.  The only remaining feature is the fountain. In 1906, the Buckeye Lake Yacht Club formed and is still in operation near the North Shore Ramp. Vintage photographs of this time period can be viewed online at www.thebuckeyelake.com.

The Great Depression had a tremendous effect on Buckeye Lake. The electric train line went out of business. As a result, many people could no longer afford to travel to the park for recreation. Many families who had summer homes on the lake began to live there year round when they could no longer afford to maintain their more expensive homes in the cities. The park rebounded in the 1940s when it was known as the place to go to hear big bands play. In 1949, Buckeye Lake was officially designated an Ohio State Park with the creation of the Ohio Department of Natural Resources. It is Ohio’s oldest state park.

So you might be asking yourself, “What does this have to do with kayaking?” Well, knowing more about the body of water you plan to kayak helps you to plan a better kayaking adventure. For example, after reading the history of Buckeye Lake wouldn’t you want to include kayaking the part of the canal that is still in existence? Also, knowing more about the body of water gives you a greater appreciation of it and makes your kayaking more rewarding. Ok, so now we are finally to the kayaking part.

The 3,100-acre Buckeye Lake is located 9 miles south of Newark and 22 miles west of Zanesville. From I70 you take State Route 79 South to reach the North Shore State Park. The North Shore Boat Ramp, Crystal Beach, Buckeye Lake Yacht Club, and Cranberry Bog State Nature Preserve are all located in this area. There are restrooms located here but they were still locked up for the winter. I had to use the port-a-john and it was disgusting! Crystal Beach is about the size of a postage stamp. I can’t imagine anyone except small children finding it fun. I had planned to put in here but it was extremely windy and there was some serious wave action going on so I decided to check out the western side of the lake.

 

North Shore Former Site of The Playground of Ohio Amusement Park

North Shore Launch Ramp Looking East

North Shore Launch Ramp Looking West-The Dam Starts At the Buildings 

Crystal Beach Swimming Beach

I headed west out of the parking lot onto State Route 79, turned left onto Millersport Road, and then another left onto Lieb’s Island Road to reach the Lieb’s Island Ramp. The dam runs 4.1 miles from Lieb’s Island to the North Shore State Park. I had already seen the eastern end of the dam, now I was seeing the western. It was still windy here but the waves were not as big since I was at the far western side of the lake. There was once again a restroom which was still locked for the season and a disgusting port-a-john. I usually say any bathroom is a good bathroom but the condition of these port-a-johns might get me to change my tune.

 

There Are Two Sets Of Ramps At Lieb's Island

Eastern Boat Ramps of Lieb's Island

Lagoon Next to Eastern Boat Ramp

View Looking East From Boat Ramp

West Boat Ramp Lieb's Island

View Looking West of the Ramp-The Houses Are on Top of the Dam Where It Starts on the West

It was cloudy and 50 degrees when I put in. I headed around the western side of Lieb’s Island and went under the Lieb’s Island Road Bridge. The Reservoir Feeder enters the lake right after the bridge. Shortly after this is the canal entrance to the right, behind the Buckeye Lake Marina. I paddled the canal to the town of Millersport; there is public docking where Millersport Road crosses over the canal. Along the way there are some parking meters for boats; they appear to be rusted over and no longer in use. I found it very amusing to think about parking my kayak and putting money in the meter. In Millersport, you could tie up your kayak and walk to a restaurant; although, I didn’t the day I was there. After reaching Millersport, I turned around and paddled back to the lake. 

Blogger Heading Out

Paddling Under Lieb's Island Road Bridge

Leaving Reservoir Feeder Heading Toward Canal Entrance

Canal to Millersport

Boat Parking Meters Along Canal 

Heading east, I was now on the south side of Lieb’s Island. The south shore of Buckeye Lake is a natural shoreline and can be shallow. After exploring Summerland Beach and Castle Island, I set Onion Island as my destination. The Buckeye Lake Yacht Club Log from December 1981 claims that WWI Flying Ace Eddie Rickenbacker spent his honeymoon on Onion Island. I find that doubtful. According to Eddie Rickenbacker’s Papers, which are housed in the Auburn University Special Collections and Archives, Eddie married Adelaide Frost Durant, a wealthy divorcee, on September 16, 1922 and honeymooned in Europe. It does make for a fun story though.

Exiting Canal, View Looking East

Paddling to Castle Island

Paddling to Onion Island

It was time for baby duck Lucy (named after one of my three dogs who loves squeaky toys and this duck squeaks, unlike most of my rubber ducks) to take her turn on the water. I let her go for a swim on the eastern side of Lieb’s Island. After this I headed north planning to kayak the more open part of the lake. As soon as I cleared Lieb’s Island, I was hit with some serious wave action. At first I thought I was under a rain cloud but then I realized I was being drenched with spray off the water. After paddling a little longer, I decided that I did not want to take the chance of entering the water so I headed back to the put in.

Baby Duck Lucy

Baby Duck Lucy With Blogger "Mama Duck"

Lucy Goes For a Swim

Getting a Workout Riding the Waves 

I really enjoyed paddling the canal. I think it would be fun to come back when it is warmer, dock in town, and walk to lunch. The lake has unlimited horsepower but it has no wake zones 300 feet from any land mass. I am not sure how paddling would be in the summer if there were many boats out on the lake. At its present depth, powered boats should be less than usual, making it a great time for kayakers. On the negative side, not increasing the water depth means the water temperature is going to be much warmer than normal. This could cause a serious problem for the fish population. No one wants to paddle around a bunch of dead fish. My advice—go at the beginning of the summer.