21 March 2015
Lake #12 Buckeye
Lake, Fairfield, Licking, and Perry Counties
The first full day of spring and I am back on the water. I
have 97 lakes left to kayak by November 6th. During the iced over days of winter, I set up
an elaborate kayaking schedule for the remaining lakes: sorting them by size, geographic
location and distance from home. You
know what happens to “the best laid plans…they often go awry.”
Originally, Buckeye Lake was on my BHAG schedule for the end
of September but given the March 12th U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ Buckeye
Lake Dam Safety Report that the “likelihood of dam failure is high,” I thought
it was best to bump the lake up to the top of my schedule; in case, the lake is
not there come September. The Report can
be viewed in its entirety online at engineering.ohiodnr.gov. According to the
Report the integrity of the 177 year old 4.1-mile long earthen dam has been
significantly compromised by the more than 370 homes and other structures (like
boat docks) that have been sunk into the dam’s embankment and sections of the
dam that have been removed to make way for things like swimming pools and
utilities.
I have never been to another reservoir where homes or other
structures were built into its dam. I wonder about the thought process that
reached the conclusion that building into the Buckeye Lake dam was ok. What was
everyone thinking? It is difficult to have sympathy for the homeowners in this
case since they, along with the local government that granted the building
permits, caused this problem. Yet, as an Ohio taxpayer it looks like I will be
helping to foot the bill to repair/replace the reservoir. I am not saying that
I don’t care about people’s safety; I don’t want to see anyone harmed by the
dam’s failure but I am annoyed at the stupidity that led to this problem. According
to the Report, the dam’s failure would threaten about 3,000 people and 2,100
homes. There are evacuation route signs posted in the area to help lead people
to safety if the dam should fail. Hopefully, now that the potential danger is
known, steps will be taken to make sure that no one is harmed.
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| If the Dam Breaks Follow the Blue Circles |
One of the recommendations of the Report is to leave the
lake’s spillways open and keep the lake at its current winter depth of about 3
feet deep until remediation work can begin.
According to the Report, seepage through the dam increases when the lake
is at full depth thus increasing the risk of the dam giving way. Normally, the
spillways are closed on March 1st to start filling the lake for its
summer depth of around 6 feet. This
recommendation is being implemented, as the spillways were still open on March
21st when I was kayaking.
The creation of Buckeye Lake has an interesting
history. Yes, I know, another history
lesson. Sorry, I just can’t help myself. You can scroll down and skip the history part but it really is interesting. In the 1700s, the
area was known as “Buffalo Licks” and simply “Big Swamp.” At the heart of this tree
covered swamp was a lake that was fed by several small streams, with one of the
largest being Buckeye Creek. This lake drained into the South Fork of the
Licking River. In 1825, a water canal route was proposed from the Ohio River at
Portsmouth to Lake Erie at Cleveland. The “Big Swamp” was conveniently located
near the midpoint of the proposed canal route, with “Licking Summit” being the
second highest elevation point. Ground was broken on the canal at Licking
Summit on July 4, 1825 and a dam was built in 1826 to block drainage into the
South Fork of the Licking River, creating a reservoir that would be able to
provide water for the canals year round.
The “Big Swamp” came to be known as the Licking Summit
Reservoir. To put the age of the dam
into perspective, think about the fact that it was built prior to the Civil
War. When the reservoir was filled, sphagnum moss broke away from the
reservoir’s bottom creating a floating island. At its creation the island was
50 acres in size. Now known as the Cranberry Bog State Nature Preserve, the
island has shrunk over the years to less than 11 acres. The preserve is located
along the north shore just east of Crystal Beach and the North Shore Ramp.
Access to the island is restricted; a permit from the Ohio Department of Natural
Resources Division of Natural Areas and Preserves is required to visit. In
addition to the Cranberry Bog, about 25 other islands were created as the water
level rose; most of these are located off the south shore.
The Ohio and Erie Canal was 308 miles long with 146 lift
locks upon its completion in 1833. Small towns grew up around Licking Summit Reservoir
taking advantage of the canal and the lake’s resources. The golden age for the canals was the 1830s
to the 1860s, with canal traffic the heaviest from 1852 to 1855. The arrival of
the faster railroads put an end to the demand for the canal system. The Erie Canal entered the reservoir just
northwest of Seller’s Point. There was a lock there but it has been replaced
with an emergency spillway. Canal boats were towed by mules along the bank to
the tip of Seller’s Point. A causeway existed from Seller’s Point to the east
side of Onion Island so the mules could pull the barges to Millersport. There
is still a canal to Millersport; it is located southwest of Lieb’s Island
behind Buckeye Lake Marina. In 1894,
with the canal system deteriorating, the Ohio General Assembly established that
canal feeder lakes were to be established as public parks. At that time, Licking
Summit Reservoir was renamed Buckeye Lake.
Between 1904 and 1929, the Columbus, Buckeye and Newark
Interurban Electric Railway brought people to the lake from nearby urban areas
like Columbus, helping to turn Buckeye Lake into a tourist destination. Hotels
and summer cottages sprung up around the lake.
The nine-acre Buckeye Lake Park known as “The Playground of Ohio” was
built on the north shore. The park contained many amusement park rides and a
supersized swimming pool. The Playground
of Ohio was located where the North Shore State Park is now. The only remaining feature is the fountain. In
1906, the Buckeye Lake Yacht Club formed and is still in operation near the North
Shore Ramp. Vintage photographs of this time period can be viewed online at
www.thebuckeyelake.com.
The Great Depression had a tremendous effect on Buckeye
Lake. The electric train line went out of business. As a result, many people
could no longer afford to travel to the park for recreation. Many families who
had summer homes on the lake began to live there year round when they could no
longer afford to maintain their more expensive homes in the cities. The park
rebounded in the 1940s when it was known as the place to go to hear big bands
play. In 1949, Buckeye Lake was officially designated an Ohio State Park with
the creation of the Ohio Department of Natural Resources. It is Ohio’s oldest
state park.
So you might be asking yourself, “What does this have to do
with kayaking?” Well, knowing more about the body of water you plan to kayak
helps you to plan a better kayaking adventure. For example, after reading the
history of Buckeye Lake wouldn’t you want to include kayaking the part of the
canal that is still in existence? Also, knowing more about the body of water
gives you a greater appreciation of it and makes your kayaking more rewarding.
Ok, so now we are finally to the kayaking part.
The 3,100-acre Buckeye Lake is located 9 miles south of
Newark and 22 miles west of Zanesville. From I70 you take State Route 79 South
to reach the North Shore State Park. The North Shore Boat Ramp, Crystal Beach, Buckeye
Lake Yacht Club, and Cranberry Bog State Nature Preserve are all located in
this area. There are restrooms located here but they were still locked up for
the winter. I had to use the port-a-john and it was disgusting! Crystal Beach
is about the size of a postage stamp. I can’t imagine anyone except small
children finding it fun. I had planned to put in here but it was extremely
windy and there was some serious wave action going on so I decided to check out
the western side of the lake.
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| North Shore Former Site of The Playground of Ohio Amusement Park |
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| North Shore Launch Ramp Looking East |
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| North Shore Launch Ramp Looking West-The Dam Starts At the Buildings |
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| Crystal Beach Swimming Beach |
I headed west out of the parking lot onto State Route 79,
turned left onto Millersport Road, and then another left onto Lieb’s Island
Road to reach the Lieb’s Island Ramp. The dam runs 4.1 miles from Lieb’s Island
to the North Shore State Park. I had already seen the eastern end of the dam,
now I was seeing the western. It was still windy here but the waves were not as
big since I was at the far western side of the lake. There was once again a restroom which was still locked for the season and a disgusting port-a-john. I usually say any bathroom is a good bathroom but the condition of these port-a-johns might get me to change my tune.
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| There Are Two Sets Of Ramps At Lieb's Island |
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| Eastern Boat Ramps of Lieb's Island |
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| Lagoon Next to Eastern Boat Ramp |
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| View Looking East From Boat Ramp |
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| West Boat Ramp Lieb's Island |
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| View Looking West of the Ramp-The Houses Are on Top of the Dam Where It Starts on the West |
It was cloudy and 50 degrees when I put in. I headed around
the western side of Lieb’s Island and went under the Lieb’s Island Road Bridge.
The Reservoir Feeder enters the lake right after the bridge. Shortly after this
is the canal entrance to the right, behind the Buckeye Lake Marina. I paddled
the canal to the town of Millersport; there is public docking where Millersport
Road crosses over the canal. Along the way there are some parking meters for
boats; they appear to be rusted over and no longer in use. I found it very amusing
to think about parking my kayak and putting money in the meter. In Millersport,
you could tie up your kayak and walk to a restaurant; although, I didn’t the
day I was there. After reaching Millersport, I turned around and paddled back
to the lake.
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| Blogger Heading Out |
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| Paddling Under Lieb's Island Road Bridge |
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| Leaving Reservoir Feeder Heading Toward Canal Entrance |
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| Canal to Millersport |
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| Boat Parking Meters Along Canal |
Heading east, I was now on the south side of Lieb’s Island. The
south shore of Buckeye Lake is a natural shoreline and can be shallow. After
exploring Summerland Beach and Castle Island, I set Onion Island as my
destination. The Buckeye Lake Yacht Club Log from December 1981 claims that WWI
Flying Ace Eddie Rickenbacker spent his honeymoon on Onion Island. I find that
doubtful. According to Eddie Rickenbacker’s Papers, which are housed in the
Auburn University Special Collections and Archives, Eddie married Adelaide
Frost Durant, a wealthy divorcee, on September 16, 1922 and honeymooned in
Europe. It does make for a fun story though.
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| Exiting Canal, View Looking East |
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| Paddling to Castle Island |
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| Paddling to Onion Island |
It was time for baby duck Lucy (named after one of my three
dogs who loves squeaky toys and this duck squeaks, unlike most of my rubber
ducks) to take her turn on the water. I let her go for a swim on the eastern
side of Lieb’s Island. After this I headed north planning to kayak the more
open part of the lake. As soon as I cleared Lieb’s Island, I was hit with some
serious wave action. At first I thought I was under a rain cloud but then I
realized I was being drenched with spray off the water. After paddling a little
longer, I decided that I did not want to take the chance of entering the water
so I headed back to the put in.
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| Baby Duck Lucy |
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| Baby Duck Lucy With Blogger "Mama Duck" |
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| Lucy Goes For a Swim |
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| Getting a Workout Riding the Waves |
I really enjoyed paddling the canal. I think it would be fun
to come back when it is warmer, dock in town, and walk to lunch. The lake has
unlimited horsepower but it has no wake zones 300 feet from any land mass. I am
not sure how paddling would be in the summer if there were many boats out on
the lake. At its present depth, powered boats should be less than usual, making
it a great time for kayakers. On the negative side, not increasing the water
depth means the water temperature is going to be much warmer than normal. This
could cause a serious problem for the fish population. No one wants to paddle
around a bunch of dead fish. My advice—go at the beginning of the summer.
